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D.K.'s Sushi Chronicles from Hawai'i: Recipes from Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, by Dave Kodama
Free Ebook D.K.'s Sushi Chronicles from Hawai'i: Recipes from Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, by Dave Kodama
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About the Author
A native of O‘ahu, Hawai‘i, D. K. KODAMA spent more than a decade on the U.S. mainland and in Mexico and the Caribbean before returning to Hawai‘i and eventually opening the first Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar in March 1996. Now executive chef/owner overseeing three Sansei restaurants, he lives in Honolulu with his wife, Lori, and daughter, Brie Ann.
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Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
Introduction THIS IS A BOOK about cutting-edge Japanese-inspired Pacific Rim cuisine. It's also a book about family, in the broadest and most embracing sense of that word. It is a book filled with recipes and stories. The force behind the food is a combination of my Japanese heritage, Hawai'i's incredible ethnic mix, and the flavors I've experienced in my travels. The resulting culinary style is unique. In Hawai'i, there is tremendous importance attached to family. It flows from the native and the Asian traditions-both deeply rooted in these Islands-which often find several generations living under one roof, a roof under which elders are revered. The word Sansei itself is a familial reference. It means "third generation," and I am just that: third generation Japanese in Hawai'i. It is in deference to my family traditions that I chose Sansei as the name for my restaurants-with a little help from sister Diane. It's time to finally give credit where credit is due: My sister Diane thought of the name Sansei!The Kodama Family Comes to Hawai'iMy maternal great-grandfather, Rev. Takie Okumura, came to Honolulu in 1894 as a minister. He was already married to Katsu Ogawa, who joined him two years later. Four of their children were born in Japan; the youngest nine of their thirteen children-including my grandfather, Fuyuki-were born in Hawai'i. During the outbreak of the black plague in December 1899, the city of Honolulu ordered the home of one of the victims to be burned in an attempt to stem the spread of the disease. The result of that order was the Great Chinatown Fire. And 3,500 Japanese immigrants living in Chinatown at that time lost everything they had. The epidemic and the fire impressed upon my great-grandfather the urgent need for a Japanese hospital. He quickly spearheaded the effort to establish the Japanese Benevolent Hospital in 1900. He was as good a fundraiser as he was a minister. After the United States entered World War II, the name of the hospital was changed to Kuakini Hospital. It eventually grew to become Kuakini Medical Center. Today, it is one of Honolulu's three largest hospitals.Grandma Tsuwa (my paternal grandmother) came to Hawai'i in 1906 as a "picture bride." Her soon-to-be husband, Grandpa Kamejiro, had arrived from Hiroshima in the great wave of Japanese immigration to Hawai'i at the end of the nineteenth century. He was just sixteen years old. Like most others at that time, he was destined for one of the Islands' sugar plantations, in his case, the one in Pä'ia, Maui. Plantation life, it turned out, was not for him. Just two years after he arrived, he and a partner opened a retail store-which promptly failed. Shortly after his marriage to Grandma, he opened his own business, Kodama's Store, a retail vegetable outlet. This time, he achieved success.My dad, Tamateru (Tama), was the youngest of four children. As my mom says, "He's typical samurai." He studied civil engineering at the University of Hawai'i from 1947 to 1952. In characteristic steadfast immigrant style, he worked as a licensed civil engineer in the construction industry for fifty years, providing a loving and comfortable home for his family. He retired in 2000. Retired, in Dad's case, is not synonymous with "gone fishing." He helps out at Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar Honolulu almost every day as well as at special events.My mom, Sandy-aka Mama Kodama, or just Mom-was born in New York City. It was there that her Maui-born mother, Yukie, met her Honolulu-born father, Fuyuki. When Fuyuki's bookstore failed during the depression, Fuyuki and Yukie Okumura brought their young son and daughter back home to Honolulu.Sandy and Tama were married in 1953 and had six children and now have eleven grandchildren. I figure in the middle of the brood. My mom says that Grandma Tsuwa, who lived with us for twenty-six years, was the culinary influence on our family. But there was good cookin' on Mom's side, too. According to Mom, her maternal grandmother was a wonderful cook, with a big copper pot on the stove all day holding stock to which bones were added constantly. Her paternal grandmother ran a cooking school in the late 1890s. It supplemented the family income but was mainly to teach young Japanese women how to make traditional foods, which were unavailable in Hawai'i markets. As good a cook as Grandma Tsuwa was, though, everyone will tell you my mother is no slouch in the kitchen either. She works in the restaurant almost every single day. By day she's a prep cook, baker, and mom to the entire staff, and by night she is The Hostess with the Mostest. Mom can "work a room" like nobody's business! On Mother's Day 2001, I gave her a chef coat with Executive Mom embroidered on it. And on Christmas 2002, her "kids" at the restaurant gave her a spectacular quilt-each square handmade by a staff member. It hangs framed in the Honolulu restaurant dining room.Mom says that one of the most important things she learned from Grandma Tsuwa was that you must educate your children's palates, and that's what she tried to do with her kids. She believes it's one of the reasons why all six are good cooks. Following are some recipes from Mom and Grandma Tsuwa, with headnotes written by Mom. These dishes take me back to my childhood, and I remember again the delicious food that was put in front of me with such love and care. Close your eyes and imagine your own mother's or grandmother's kitchen. Pork and Beans, Kodama-StyleServes 2 Now it can be told: D.K. was Grandma Kodama's favorite. This was his favorite of her very simple, very American dishes.1 pound ground beef1 (24-ounce) can pork and beans2 tablespoons ketchup1/2 cup chopped green onionIn a pot over medium heat, stir-fry the beef until browned, about 5 minutes. Add the pork and beans, ketchup, and green onion and simmer over low heat 30 to 45 minutes, until the mixture comes to a low rolling boil. Mix well and serve. Introduction Tuna Patties Makes 8 patties When the cupboard is bare, there's no easier meal, especially if you have a house full of hungry kids.2 (6-ounce) cans tuna1 small red onion, sliced1 egg 1 tablespoon flour Salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil for fryingIn a bowl, combine the tuna, onion, egg, flour, and salt and mix well. Form into 8 patties. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. In batches, fry the patties for about 2 minutes on each side, until both sides are golden brown. Serve.Grandma Tsuwa's OjiyaServes 4 My mother-in-law's version of seasoned gruel, a family staple in our day. When any of the children showed the first signs of cold or flu, Grandma-and years later, I-would immediately make a batch of ojiya. We used canned clams because they were less expensive than the traditional Japanese hokkigai.3/4 cup short-grain white rice, washed1 (15-ounce) can mid-Atlantic cocktail clams with the juice1 bunch chives, chopped into 1-inch-long pieces2 tablespoons miso 2 eggs Salt Dash of hondashi In a large pot, bring 8 cups of water to a boil. Add the rice, clams, and clam juice and stir to combine. Decrease the heat to medium. Simmer until the mixture thickens and most of the liquid evaporates, about 30 minutes. Just before removing, add the chives, miso, eggs, salt to taste, and hondashi and stir until combined. Serve.Fried String Beans Serves 2 In our home, my husband always wanted a variety of dishes on the table. This was something a little different-and quick and easy-to do with a common vegetable. 1 pound string beans, sliced diagonally into 1Ž2-inch pieces1 tablespoon vegetable oilSalt 1 egg Rinse the beans in cold water. Drain, but do not dry. In a frying pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the beans to the pan; they should sizzle. Season with salt. Sauté the beans until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the egg to the beans and stir to scramble. Serve.Grandma Tsuwa's Cabbage Tsukemono (Pickled Cabbage)Serves 4 Every Japanese family has its own version of this dish. This one comes from my mother-in-law. You must always have pickled cabbage in the house.1 whole cabbage, quartered1/2 cup Hawaiian salt or other coarse salt (enough to make the cabbage squeak) 1 tablespoon sugar 1/2 cup hot water In a bowl, sprinkle the cabbage with the salt and sugar. Pour the hot water over the cabbage and cover with a heavy weight. Set aside for half a day. Turn the cabbage over several times after half a day and replace the weight. Let the cabbage soak for 24 hours at room temperature. Rinse the cabbage with fresh water and chop it into bite-size pieces. Serve with soy sauce.Pickled Cucumbers Serves 4 When you live in Hawai'i, you need to have a big potluck repertoire. This is a great one because you get a big yield out of a few inexpensive ingredients. It's also a staple of every Japanese home. Kochujang sauce is a Korean seasoning made from miso, honey, and chili pepper. You can buy the bottled sauce in any Asian market.2 cucumbers, sliced into 1Ž4-inch-thick rounds4 tablespoons sugar1/4 cup vinegar 1/3 cup soy sauce 1 teaspoon Kochujang sauce1 teaspoon Asian (toasted) sesame oil2 tablespoons toasted sesame seedsIn a bowl, place the cucumbers and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of the sugar. Set aside. In another bowl, combine the remaining ingredients and mix well. Drain the cucumber, squeezing out any excess liquid. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. Takuwan (Pickled Daikon)Serves 4 Another staple of every Japanese home. We wouldn't think of going on a picnic or to a potluck without takuwan.1/2 cup distilled white vinegar2 cups sugar 1/4 cup salt 1/4 teaspoon yellow food coloring6 whole daikon, sliced into matchstick-size piecesIn a bowl, combine the vinegar, sugar, salt, and food coloring to make a marinade. In another bowl, combine the daikon with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least 24 hours. It will keep for up to 1 month in the refrigerator. A Sansei Is Born I was born and raised on O'ahu in a family pretty typical of second-generation Japanese in Hawai'i: hard-working parents and six kids happily living the simple Island life. I was following in my father's footsteps as a civil engineering major at the University of Hawai'i and working at a downtown restaurant when the bug bit. I started as a busboy, moved up to server, then bartender. Not only was it fun . . . I got paid, too! Pau hana (that's what we call "after work time" here in Hawai'i), the guys would get together and fantasize about how cool it would be to own a bar. That fantasy stuck in the back of my mind as a real possibility for me someday. An opportunity to be a restaurant manager presented itself when friends Robert Peterson, Peter Chalman, and Jim Phelan opened a restaurant in Seattle. It meant moving away from home for the first time, and I accepted. In 1979, I became the first of my clan to venture off to the Mainland . . . and the glamorous restaurant business. I spent three years in Seattle. It was a lot of hard work and very long hours, but I learned a lot and really enjoyed it. The next opportunity came when another friend, Jack Ichikawa, asked me to manage his restaurant in Aspen. I didn't even know where Aspen was, but I jumped at the chance anyway. During my ten years there, I must have worked at twenty different restaurants. I wanted to learn all I could about every aspect of the business. Off-seasons at the ski resort provided me with time to travel throughout the United States, Mexico, and the Caribbean, where my "local boy" palate was introduced to a world of new flavors and culinary styles. The culinary scene was exploding. Julie Murad-Weiss and Peter O'Grady, who owned Julie & Peter's Creative Catering, taught me classic and contemporary cooking techniques and exposed me to new and exotic products. After that, I worked for Casey Koffman, owner of the famous Takah Sushi Restaurant, who was very patient with me. Lucky for me, because it gave me the opportunity to learn from her amazing head sushi chef, Kenichi Kanada, or "Ken-san."Well, you can take the local boy out of the Islands but you can't take the Islands out of the local boy, and so I returned to the place I love best. My first job back in Hawai'i was working with Katsuhiko Sato, "Sato-san," at a traditional sushi bar, where he not only refined my skills but also taught me new techniques, introduced me to new items, and explained it all in a way that was easy to understand. He combined patience with skill-the marks of a true mentor. At about the same time, the Hawai'i Regional Cuisine movement was just starting to gather steam. Local chefs were creating food that was exciting, fresh, beautifully presented, and really tasty. I became inspired and wanted to incorporate some of their wonderfully nontraditional items into my sushi repertoire. I had a sushi bar "concession" at Bev and Joe Gannon's Hali'imaile General Store on Maui, and it was there that I started to experiment with my new-wave sushi. They made great product available to me. I also met Nobu Matsuhisa there, my sushi guru. I was so lucky to work at his side during a special dinner at the General Store and, subsequently, at many other culinary events.
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Product details
Paperback: 256 pages
Publisher: Ten Speed Press (January 6, 2009)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1580089631
ISBN-13: 978-1580089630
Product Dimensions:
8.3 x 0.7 x 9.5 inches
Shipping Weight: 2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.4 out of 5 stars
11 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#1,304,160 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
Still reveiwing this one but is has far more ideas an flavor than might be expected. I happend to be familiar with the author so that prompted me to buy it and check it out. If you are looking for menu ideas that are not too exotic but still bring new flavors and combinations with good focus on execution, this is one that you need to have. The skinny, if you own or work at a standard sushi bar and want be able to distigush yourself from the others, you should have this in your arsenal. You will get far more milage out of this than you will of all most all other books, especially those fantastic books by masters. ( I will give a full review when I'm done with it.)
If you want to know some amazing Sushi recipes, this is for you! The restaurant which wrote the book is my favorite Sushi place. The have 30+ awards for their recipes.- No technical knowledge in the book- Award winning Sushi sauces and rolls- Great images, and lots of them!Good luck and have fun, its my favorite sushi book, hope its yours too!
I love eating at Sansei in both Maui and Hawaii when we visit. I ordered this book to make the pickled veggies they serve and have ended up making a few of the recipes. The recipes are easy to follow, and while mine are not as pretty as theirs, they are still yummy!
If you have ever been to sensei, you know these recipes have to be amazing! If you haven't and love to cook, this really is a must purchase book!
I enjoyed this book and the recipes. I can say that my family and I have tried and enjoyed them.
Great read! I enjoyed all his stories as well as the wonderful recipes. They were easy to follow. The hardest part was locating all the ingredients, even though I live in Southern Ca.
We purchased this book after eating at Sansei in Maui and Oahu our first time to Hawaii and love the book. If you have never eaten at Sansei you are really missing out. Chef DK has created an amazing menu. Everything is delicious. If you are heading to Maui or Oahu, make sure you put Sansei down as a "to-do" while you are there. On Sunday and Monday night they open at 5PM and everything on the menu is 50% off for one hour. You have to get their by 4PM or so in order to get in, but it is well worth the wait.Chef Kodama and Bonnie Friedman share all of Chef Kodama's secrets and do a great job illustrating how to create traditional and contemporary Japanese cuisine. They explain how and why each ingredient is used and translate ingredients throughout the book so you don't have to keep looking up terms when trying a new recipe. The book is simple enough for beginners to follow, yet offers some contemporary (and slightly more complex) dishes for the advanced chef.If you love sushi and want to start making it at home, by this book.
I've been to his restaurant in Maui and the food was fabulous. So good in fact that I bought this book. While I could use more examples of fish to swap for things only a Hawaiian can get I find the recipes so easy a beginner can use them to make some fantastic food. I highly recommend this book.
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